Camber Induced vs Rotational Sails

Camber Induced vs Rotational Sails

This month will be giving you the opportunity to ask our panel of experts any questions you may have regarding the differences between camber induced and rotational sails and which ones might be best for you. With a great pedigree in the freeride and race market we have the knowledge available to answer any question you may have on this subject, just fill out the form below and watch out for a response!

All my sails are Tushingham. Storms 5.2 and 6.0 then Lightnings 7.0 and 7.8
out of the two I find without a doubt the Lightning to be the better sail. My
question is the storms have one clew hole yet the lightning has two. I tend to
use the higher hole of the two but why have two? and what difference does it
make to sailing/rigging… top hole/bottom hole?

Stephen Sykes

 

The double clew hole on the Lightning is merely to compensate for different sailor height, so taller sailors should favour the higher hole. Many feel it’s more comfortable to sail with the boom parallel with the water.
But changing holes also gives the sail a different feel. I favour the lower one even though I’m quite tall as it seems to put me more in touch with the leech. For blasting sails like the Lightning the lower hole allows the leech to twist off a little more in maxed-out conditions and using the top hole gives a little more drive when pumping in light winds.

However there are no strict rules – give both a go and see what you feel.

 
 

I am looking to update my sail quiver. I sail a 115 and 96 ltr freewave
boards. Bigest size sail is a 7.1 and smallest sail is 4.5 whats the best and
cheapest sizes between these. I suppose i am asking whats the least metreage
between sails i can get away with. I weigh 90kg.

Chris Treaise

 

Hi Chris
Interesting question! I believe the way to minimize a quiver is to choose the sail which perfectly matches the board size. For your 96 fsw that would be A 5.7m.
I was in Jeri recently and due to weight restrictions on the plane I could only take one board and one rig with me. Given my weight, much the same as yours, my best allround board is a 94 Kode, and the perfect sail for that was a 5.7 Rock – and I used that combo happily every day in winds from 10 to 17 knots.
So to answer your question you could ‘get away’ with just a 5.7m, but … something like  a 6.2m Storm would be nice to use with the 115ltr if  want to use it as a light wind wave board. A 5.0m would also be good as it has to be proper windy before guy of 90kg can use a 4.5m!
Cheers

Peter Hart

 
 
 
 

Purchased a 7.0 Lightning and received the Cams and a small bag of 4 plastic
clips!  My question is…do i put a clip on first then the Cam and another
clip…?  Or Put the Cam on and only put 1 clip on inside the Cam to hold it
on…????  Just need to be sure.

Don’t want to muck it up getting it wrong…

Thanks in advance

Gary Fromhold

 

Hi Gary

Don’t worry too much about the spacers. They’re a tuning aid to create a solid connection between cam and mast to create the most efficient foil possible. On the right mast the cams usually engage fine without them, so only fit them if the cams aren’t engaging when the mast is under load.

 
 

Hi,
I’m a 90 kg sailor around Peter Harts age who used to work in a
F2/Mistral/Klepper dealership in Brighton in the 80′s and sailed Starlit
Waves, Screamers and the Klepper272 off Hove. I’m living on a Scottish island
now and would like your recommendations for a modern  early planing freeride
board/sail set up for blasting about in light to medium winds. 

Andy Walters

 

Hi Andy

Scottish Island? What a great windsurfing move!

Well I currently weight in at 85kg and my favourite combo for free-riding in force 3-4 winds is a:
Futura 141 and an 8.5 T4
You’ve got plenty of volume to sail happily off the plane if you need to tack out of a windless creek – and the cam-less 8.5 has got lots of low end power but is really easy to rig and light in the hands. And by the way, the Futura 140 is a rocket ship but incredibly forgiving and easy to sail, gybing like a board half its size.
You can go bigger with the sail size – say a 9 or 9.5 lightning to get going perhaps a knot or two earlier – but I’ve jut found the 8.5 works perfectly with the 141. When you get the perfect match, the combo tends to punch well above its weight.

Options
Given that it’s Scotland and that ‘light’ winds may have a different meaning; the next biggest board in my quiver is a Kode 103 which I use with a Storm 6.2. With a little pumping I’m planing in 15 knots and then you have a combo that is good well into 20 knots and is pretty handy in waves. If you could handle a Klepper, this will be a doddle!

All the best

Peter

PS The Photo is PH on his favoured 141 Futura and 8.5 T4

 
 
 
 

I recently bought a 75% carbon free wave 430 mast and as I was assembling it
together on the beach I got sand in the joint and it is now stuck, my question
is how can you take apart the two sections of the mast when there is sand
stuck in the joint?

Michael Beno

 

Hi Michael

Here’s the procedure:

  1. With a mate (preferably strong) on one end, and you on the other, SHAKE the mast vigorously. Then see if you can open it.

If that doesn’t work …
2. Find something to trap the end and bend the mast to the extreme. That can break the seal. Then see if you can open it.
If that doesn’t work …
3. Attach a boom really tightly to either half. They often provide the leverage needed.

And if none of those work, it’s a numbers game. Get as many people on either end as you can find, make sure they’re twisting in opposite directions, and really go for it!

Good luck

Peter Hart

 
 

Hi I have en Edge 5.7 and have been rigigng it on an rd60 430 mast, it always
seems like the batterns either side of the boom are too far around the mast
unless I really crank the downhaul on in which case the leech goes floppy all
the way down to the clew. Would this sail be better on a 400 rd60 instead?
What would the difference be? Thanks.

Adam Taylor

 

Hi Adam

The idea with a  freestyle/wave sail, is to get away with as small as sail as possible. And  unlike our more speed-oriented designs (T4s, Lightnings etc) it’s NOT a sail you want to use over-powered.

Hence we set the Edge with just moderate downhaul, so leech is a little floppy down to the second half batten. Then adjust the power through the outhaul. Without too much pre-twist, the sail then feels really light, springy and reactive in the hands.

So, onto your problem. You certainly don’t want to collapse the leech down to the clew. It’ll feel horrible! Gutless and unstable.

If you you’re getting that over-rotation of the lower battens, it could be:

1. Too stiff a mast. The 430 should work but you’re right, it is designed to work better on a 400 (19 IMCS).

2. Wrong bend. If the mast you’re using is a bit stiff in the bottom section the lower battens will over-rotate.

3. Standard diameter. The Edge will set on an standard diameter mast but it will tend to set with more shape in the bottom section.

4. Too little outhaul. You may simply not have enough outhaul. Outhaul controls the shape in the bottom half of the sail. Increase it and you’ll pull the bottom battens away from the mast.

I hope this helps

All the best

Peter

 
 
 
 

The Panel

  • Roger Tushingham
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    Roger Tushingham

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    Dave Hackford

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    Ken Black

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    Paul Simmons

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    John Hibbard

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    Luke Green

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    Scott Warren

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    Sam Ross

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    Peter Hart

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    Simon Bornhoft

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    Luke Smith

  • NEW CLINICS, HOLIDAYS & ADVENTURES 2014!
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    Darren Mathers

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